Definitely beats shoving 600 film into an old Spectra cartridge though :) but other than the poor framing and black bar, and without the wide frame, nothing really stands out as ‘Spectra’ that will make me do it too often. But as you can see, it’s pretty much the Polaroid Originals experience it’s nice that the camera can focus to some degree, has a few bells/whistles etc. I’ll probably do it again it’s awesome that these things aren’t total paperweights and that’s important. I wasted three shots total out of the pack of eight two described in detail below, and one my fault (I accidentally exposed the top film of one of the packs, when I tried to pull out the film to re-seat the battery).Īnyway, is it worth the effort of: 3D printing the adapter, cost of batteries/charger (or film if you reuse), time tweaking the setup, transferring (and possibly damaging) film to the new cartridge, and a possibility of still losing whole shots or having black bars or other anomalies, on a used camera that isn’t guaranteed to work in the first place? I’m not sure if the ‘tear’ at the top left is related to my handling and loading the film, or an imbalance of the rollers (since there’s no longer even pressure across them with 600). It worked! Evident is my lack of memory about compensating the shot framing- black line on the bottom is not my fault though. So I took random household shots, not messing with any of the switches or anything - like some weird, normal person in the late nineties. Sorry for the less than thrilling shots here I was excited to try it quickly, and wasn’t going to go out and do anything ‘important’ with a camera I don’t totally trust. I printed a version of the Spectra/600 adapter that uses SX-70/600 batteries, rather than the (impossible to find for me) 3.2v AAAs - Still waiting for those in the mail, but pretty sure both sellers I bought from flaked at this point. I used the bulb setting on the 95A and estimated the one second exposure.Not sure anyone’s given their full warts and all experience of using a Spectra adapter- so here goes. I loaded up another image later on in the evening and shot a 1 second exposure of a reflection near my house focusing at 50 ft. Also, when using this method, because of the 95A’s limited range of functionality & Impossible’s film sensitivity, you will be restricted as to where and when you can shoot. NOTE: If this is something you are going to try, take in account that with the 95A you might have, there will be some variances to the shutter speeds because of aged mechanical parts. They would jump around slightly, but for the most part, when I pressed the shutter release slowly, the results were fairly consistent. When testing, the speeds were a little erratic. On the 95A I have, the average shutter speeds are … I went up the road to Archinal Camera and had Robert test the shutter speeds. Impossible Project PZ680 – Polaroid 95A – 1/12th I tripped the shutter at the #1 setting 1/12th.ĮDIT: Once I shot the image, I took the camera into the darkroom/closet to extract the photo, slid it back into an empty cartridge, stuck the cartridge in the Spectra and it ejected the image to start development. To check its close focus, I snapped a quick photo inside my bathroom, with the lens roughly 21 inches away from the mirror. The camera has notches for focusing from 3.5 – 50ft. – CLICK HERE for the Polaroid 95A Manual – If you’re removing film from your camera in the darkroom/closet, you will need a darkslide to put over the top of the cartridge BEFORE inserting it back in the camera. Nothing extra is needed to keep the film flat & in place. NOTE: When closed, the 95A’s back holds the film in place perfectly. Using this technique, I extracted the photo from my Spectra and put it inside the 95A while in the darkroom,*my closet*. I did some quick research online about the camera f/8.8 with shutter speeds from 1/12th – 1/100th & a bulb setting. PZ680 placed inside the back of a Polaroid 95A
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